The more you know about the unique characteristics
of wood and its source, the better you can understand
the degree of warmth and beauty that it brings to
our everyday décor. Furniture made of wood
is one of the few things in the world that all people
can own and know that they are the only person in
the world who owns that particular grain pattern and
its inherent beauty. Each grain pattern is a unique
masterpiece of design and texture. Even what some
may view as a defect, like a knot or other natural
blemishes, can add more beauty and character to any
given piece of furniture.
The classification of wood has historically always
been either hard wood; any leaf bearing tree, and
soft wood; any cone bearing tree. These terms
can be confusing since some leaf bearing trees can
have very soft wood and some coniferous trees can
have very hard woods. To make this easier, below you
will find a list of different tree
types, classification and then individual wood characteristics.
OAK
Oak is the most widely used hardwood. There are more
than 60 species of oak grown, which can be separated
into two basic varieties; white and red. The red variety
is also known as black oak as a reference to its bark.
History:
Oak was the wood of choice for the Gothic furniture
made in the middle Ages. It remained popular throughout
the seventeenth century. Quarter cut oak boards known
as wainscot were brought to Northern Europe as early
as the fourteenth century. Traditionally, oak has
been used for styles that require only a moderate
amount of carving.
Properties:
Oak is a heavy,
strong, light colored hardwood. It is ring porous,
due to the fact that more and larger conductive vessels
are laid down early in the summer, rather than later.
Prominent rings and large pores give oak a course
texture and prominent grain. Oak also has conspicuous
medullar rays, which can be seen as "flakes"
in quarter sawed Oak lumber.
Uses:
Oak is the most popular wood used to craft American
and English country designs as well as many transitional
and contemporary pieces but in the Middle East, a
treated limed Oak is widely used.
MAPLE
Properties:
Maple is so hard and resistant to shocks that it is
often used for bowling alley floors. Its diffuse,
evenly sized pores give the wood a fine texture and
even grain. Maple that has a curly grain is often
used for violin backs (the pattern formed is known
as fiddle back figure). Burls, leaf figure, and birds-eye
figures found in maple are used extensively for veneers.
The Birds eye figure in maple is said to be the result
of stunted growth and is quite rare.
Uses:
Maple is used extensively for American colonial furniture,
especially in medium and lower priced categories.
It can also be stained to simulate cherry wood, which
it resembles.
NOTE: When
purchasing maple furniture, it is important that you
understand the nature of this wood and the finishes
applied to it. Note the variations in the shading
of the different pieces of wood and the different
grain patterns. No two pieces of wood are the same.
Note the variations in the "birds eye" patterns.
Each piece of wood will have a different "birds
eye" pattern. These are quite natural and imminent.
MAHOGANY
History:
Mahogany was known in Europe since the time of the
Spanish explorers, but it was not widely used for
furniture before the 18th century, when it largely
replaced walnut as the predominant cabinet making
wood. It was at this time that English Georgian cabinetmakers
such as Chippendale and Sheraton, and Americans like
Goddard and Millwud used it extensively. The Empire,
Federal and Victorian craftsmen were also great consumers
of this fine wood. To it is popular in the Middle
East and Asia.
Properties:
Mahogany is strong, with a uniform pore structure
and poorly defined annual rings. It has a reddish
- brown color and may display stripe, ribbon, broken
stripe, rope, ripple, mottle, fiddle back or blister
figures. Crotch mahogany figures are widely used and
greatly valued. Mahogany is an excellent carving wood
and finishes well.
Uses:
Mahogany is used extensively in the crafting of Georgian,
Empire and Federal reproduction furniture. Mahogany
is also used in styles ranging from Victorian furniture
reproductions to Contemporary. Due to its exclusive
colour, the Engineered wood with mocking lamination
has conquered the Middle East furniture Industry.
CHERRY
History:
Cherry was often used in original American colonial
furniture. European cherry was also used for provincial
furniture.
Properties:
A moderately hard, strong, closed grain, light to
red-brown wood, cherry resists warping and checking.
It is easy to carve and polish.
Uses:
Cherry veneers and solids are used in a variety of
styles. Cherry is one of the favourite choices of
interior designers.
NOTE:
When purchasing cherry furniture, it is important
that you understand the nature of this wood and the
finishes applied to it. Please notice the small pits
in the wood, these are known as "gum pits"
and are natural characteristics of cherry wood. Cherry
wood is usually finished with a lacquer product, which
creates a shiny appearance. In this type of finish
when looking at it under a light, you will notice,
"swirl" marks that appear to be scratches.
This is normal and is not a defect. It is also important
to understand when purchasing cherry dining table
& Chair that, many companies build chairs in one
factory and tables in another. This will cause some
variations in color between chairs and tables. Please
consider these facts about cherry furniture before
deciding to make your purchase.
WALNUT
Walnut is one of the most versatile and popular cabinet
making woods. It grows in Europe, America and Asia.
There are many different varieties.
History:
Walnut and oak were the primary cabinet making woods
in 17th century Europe. Walnut and mahogany were the
primary woods of the 18th century. In 18th century
America, walnut was often stained to imitate mahogany.
The 1820's and 30's in America are often referred
to as the "Black Walnut Period" due to the
preponderance of this wood. The Queen Anne (1702-1714)
period in England is often referred to as the "Age
of Walnut."
Properties: Walnut is strong, hard and durable, without
being excessively heavy. It has excellent woodworking
qualities, and takes finishes well. The wood is light
to dark chocolate brown in color with a straight grain
in the trunk. Wavy grain is present toward the roots,
and walnut stumps are often dug out and used as a
source of highly figured veneer. Large burls are common.
Walnut solids and veneers show a wide range of figures,
including strips, burls, mottles, crotches, curls
and butts. European walnut is lighter in color and
slightly finer in texture than American black walnut,
but otherwise comparable.
Uses:
Walnut is used in all types of fine cabinetwork, especially
18th century reproductions.
PINE
Pine is softwood, which grows in most areas of the
Northern Hemisphere. There are more than 100 species
worldwide.
History:
Pine (also fir) was used historically for structural
components of furniture and drawer linings in Europe,
as well as for simple country designs.
Properties:
Pine is a soft, white or pale yellow wood, which is
lightweight, straight, grained and lacks figure. It
resists shrinking and swelling. Knotty pine is often
used for decorative effect.
Uses:
Pine is often used for country or provincial furniture.
Pickled, whitened, painted and oil finishes are often
used on this wood.
ASH
Properties:
Ash is a hard, heavy, ring porous hardwood. It has
a prominent grain that resembles oak, and a white
to light brown color. Ash is differentiated from hickory
(pecan), which it also resembles, by white dots in
the darker summerwood, which can be seen with the
naked eye. Ash burls have a twisted, interwoven figure.
Uses:
Ash is widely used for structural frames and steam
bent furniture pieces. It is often less expensive
than comparable hardwoods.
BEECH
Properties & Uses:
Beech is a hard, strong, heavy wood with tiny pores
and large conspicuous medullar rays, similar in appearance
to maple. This relatively inexpensive wood has reddish
brown heartwood and light sapwood. Beech is often
used for frames, a variety of bent and turned parts.
Quarter sliced and half round cut beech veneers are
commonly used.
TEAK
True teak is indigenous to Southeast Asia namely Indian
& Myamar, but similar wood species also grow in
Africa but not as popular as Asian grown.
Properties & Uses:
Teak is a yellow to dark brown hardwood, which is
extremely heavy, strong and durable. Often strongly
figured, teak may show straight grain, mottled or
fiddle back figures. It carves well, but because of
its high value, is often used as a veneer. Scandinavian
modern, and oriental furniture styles are often crafted
of Teak
Engineered
Wood
Lets be honest here, engineered wood just doesn’t
sound as good as solid wood does. So we have some
reluctance in considering it a quality material. Let’s
take a closer look at engineered wood and its uses
and dispel the myths now and empower ourselves with
the knowledge to accept engineered wood as a quality
material in today’s world. What do we know about
engineered wood? There is particleboard and medium
density fiberboard (MDF). Particleboard is made from
refined wood chips that are blended with adhesives
and then pressed under heat and pressure to make “man
made” wood panels. Particleboard has chunkier
surfaces and cores. MDF is made up of wood pieces
that are actually cooked in steam and refined into
fibers. These fibers are then blended with adhesives
and pressed into the form of wood panels that have
very smooth surfaces and cores.
Why use engineered wood in furniture?
It is stable, arguably more so than solid wood, it
is resistant of warping and splitting where solid
wood is very susceptible to that type of behavior.
It is less expensive to use than solid wood is. It
is environmentally sound; using engineered wood products
ensures the maximum use of harvested trees and even
during the manufacturing process of engineered wood,
trim and other by-products are cycled back into production
or used in place of fossil fuels for maximum efficiency.
MDF is as popular in Gulf Countries as particleboard
in Europe. Particleboard is less
expensive.
What Is Veneering?
Veneering is the process of applying a thin sheet
of material, usually wood, to the surface of another
material. Veneer is usually applied to a less expensive
piece of wood, and thereby gives the look and feel
of a more luxurious piece without the cost. Veneering,
if applied properly can also add extra strength to
a piece of furniture. Veneering is typically done
using wood or plastic. If wood is used, the manner
in which the wood is cut and the part of the tree
it is cut from, determines the type of pattern produced.
Horizontal slices reveal a pattern of rings, while
vertical slices produce a wood grain effect. The different
types of wood veneering most commonly used on furniture
are listed below.
Curl
Veneer: The exposed grain in curl
veneer resembles a plume or curl and is generally
sliced from the intersection of a branch with the
tree trunk.
Burl Veneer: Burl veneer is also called tortoise-shell
veneer because of its unusual grain which somewhat
resembles a tortoise shell. It is generally sliced
from a knot or growth on the tree, the most common
being Redwood, Walnut, Elm and Ash.
Oyster Veneer:
Oyster veneer is composed of several small pieces
arranged in a pattern. As the name implies, this type
of veneer resembles an oyster shell. It is sliced
horizontally from very thin branches rather than from
the trunk of the tree.
Inlaid Veneer:
Inlaid veneer is made from larger sheets cut in strips.
Since the strips all have the same pattern, they are
arranged to form a variety of geometric designs.
Crotch Veneer:
Crotch veneer is cut from the fork of the tree where
the trunk forms a "Y" with the main branches.
The cut is made perpendicularly, and creates a figure
that sweeps upward to resemble a plume or feather.
It is sometimes called feather figure veneer.
Crown Veneer:
Crown veneer is cut on a tangent to the annual growth
rings and produces an elliptical figure with sweeping
curves in the middle, and striped grain on the ends.
It is generally cut from Walnut.
Stump Veneer:
The exposed grain in stump veneer displays unusual,
distorted figures caused by back cutting slices from
the stump of the tree.
Another important factor in veneering is how the wood
grain patterns are laid onto the piece being veneered.
It is an art form in itself to arrange these pieces
of wood to create an appealing look. The artistry
used in creating these patterns is called “matching".
The more common methods of “matching”
are shown below.
Types of Veneer Panels
Core: Furniture grade engineered lumber.
Cross Bands:
Thin strips of decorative cross-grained veneer Laid
perpendicular to face veneer to resist warping.
Face and Back Veneers: Desirable wood grain to create
a beautiful finished product.
Traditional Methods of Cutting Veneers
Rotary Cut:
The log is revolved against a knife blade which pares
off veneer in thin, continues sheets.
Flat Cut: A half section of a log is sliced directly
through the heart of the piece producing a combination
of straight grain and a heart figure.
Quartered:
Small segments of a long (quarters, eights) cut at
approximately right angels to the growth rings for
a striped effect.
Half Round:
The log or a portion of it mounted to an eccentric
and cut off center so that adjacent sheets yield a
symmetrical pattern when matched for a veneer.
Hack Cut:
The log is fastened to the stay log on the bark side
so that first sheets come from tree heart.
Rift Cut:
Knife cuts at a 45-degree angle to both rings and
medullar rays to produce a striped effect called a
“comb grain” or “rift”.
Sawn:
The log is cut straight and quartered. This method
is used mostly for oak, to reveal its flake pattern
Wood Finishes
Wood finishes enhance the beauty
of your furniture with rich colors and bring out vivid
wood grains. Manufacturers use many different kinds
of finishes to coat their furniture, and each creates
a look all its own. Read on to discover different
techniques and applications of wood finish.
Every now and then the question comes up: Why are
there variations in the grain or color on various
pieces in the same high quality bedroom group? Or
why do the chairs in an expensive wood dining set
not match exactly? Cheaper built sets may even appear
to match better. Why?
Keep in mind that no pieces of wood are ever exactly
alike, even when they are from the same tree. More
closely grained parts of the wood absorb less of the
stain or pigment than do more open grained areas.
These natural differences in color and graining affect
the way each piece of wood reacts to the various staining
materials used in the manufacturing process.
It's interesting to note that some very cheap furniture
matches perfectly. There is NO variation in color
or grain at all. This is because it isn't "real
wood". It's a pressed wood product with the finish
"printed" on. (Sometimes referred to as
"engraved", "router", or "photographic"
finishes.) The one advantage to the printed finish
is it's complete lack of variation. Even the grain
"repeats" every 18" or so - like wallpaper.
It's about as boring as wallpaper too. No variety
to add interest.
Another problem is that if you ever damage one of
these printed finishes, it's much more difficult to
repair than real wood. It requires a professional
to fix it. First the damaged area has to be filled,
then the graining hand "painted" back on
in exactly the right colors, then the final finish
matched to the surrounding area for luster. Real wood
can usually be fixed with a "wax stick",
or some "Old English" furniture polish.
Generally a “do-it-yourself” proposition.
We like to think of the natural variation in real
wood furniture as a reflection of its uniqueness.
Also, real wood finishes over time and use will assume
a warm patina. Like fine wine, the finish ages gracefully.
In contrast, the finish on the fake stuff just wears
off.
Sanding, filling, staining, rubbing and finishing
costs a little more than "printed" finishes,
but in our experience, the payback in beauty and durability
is well worth the difference. It's a lot more interesting
too.
Fillers:
Open grain woods like oak, ash and elm require filling
if a smooth finish is desired.
Sealer: Sprayed on, dried and sanded, the sealer provides
a smooth base for the finish coat.
Glazes:
Finely dispersed pigments in a slow drying solution.
Top Coats: Synthetics and polyesters can produce durable
finishes that are impervious to some of the things
that in the past would have caused damage to the wood
finishes. Easily produces a high gloss finish without
all of the hand rubbing required as it was originally.
Oil Finish:
Walnut, Pecan and other hard woods with rich natural
colors can be finished by applying several coats of
linseed oil two or three days apart. The oil is brushed
on and wiped after setting. This finish can be renewed
with another coat when desired.
Polyester Finishes: Resilient, durable and easily
maintained; polyester finishes are available in a
rainbow of colors with wonderful depth. This type
of finish can produce a mirror type shine and is unparalleled
in mar and scratch resistance.
Color Washing: Using thinned paint or glaze, the color
is applied over a dry surface, and then wiped off
using a cloth, feathers or a brush. Surfaces look
best if only a thin layer of wash remains.
Combing: Using a cloth, cardboard or decorators’
comb, (the comb can be plastic, steel or rubber),
the object is run through a wet surface, paint, glaze
or a light plaster. This produces a checkered or parallel
effect.
Gilding: Thin gold leaves are applied either with
the process of water gilding or oil-gilding.
Lacquer:
A form of resinous varnish capable of taking on a
high polish. Applied in layers, each layer must dry
and be slightly sanded before the next layer can be
applied.
Spattering: Paint is flecked onto a dry surface from
a wet brush using a variety of hand movements.
more….
Furnishing Tips
White spots from water This is the question We get
asked the most. “How do I remove the white rings
and spots on my furniture?” Given enough time,
water can cause as much damage to wood as can fire.
The first step in removing a fresh white spot or ring
is simply to do nothing except remove the source of
the moisture and any remaining on the woods’
surface. Then wait.
Water
Damage
A watermark is caused by water that is trapped below
the surface of the lacquer. If the watermark is not
to deep this can be removed by a light sanding and
a coat of lacquer. If the watermark is deeper and
cannot be removed without rubbing all the way through
to the timber then the alternatives are to build up
some colour using an airbrush or strip and re-stain
the complete surface. Often when a surface has a watermark
on its surface
Living
Room Decorating Ideas
Your living room is probably the most versatile area
in your home. It is the room most visited by your
family, friends, neighbors and others. So why not
take the time to transform it into a warm, inviting
place that reflects your personal style and has architectural
presence?
Decorating tips for
Dining Room
Elegance is important for formal dining, but a casual
air is inviting. Try angling the table – or
what’s on the table. The right rugs and plants
will warm the mood. In the formal dining room, think
elegance, but a casual elegance. Remember: new paint
or wallpaper makes an easy splash. Recalling the flow
of angles try turning your dining table. If space
does not permit angling the whole table, try angling
what's on the table.
Types
of joinery |
Distressed
Furniture: |
Butt joints |
Fly specking |
| Cross Joints |
Cow tailing |
| Dado Joints |
White pumice |
| Dove Joints |
Rasping |
| Through dove tail or French Dove tail |
Worm holes |
| Doweled joint |
Rubbing (hand rubbed) |
| Mitre Joint |
Crackle finish |
| Mortise & Tenon |
|
| Rebbeted joint |
|
| Scarf joint |
|
| Splined Joint |
|
| Tongue & grove |
|
